Tuesday, April 27, 2010

the bunk

The last couple years I slept on a folding camp cot. When I needed room for a large load of freight, I stored the cot and slept on the floor. Sometimes there was hardly enough room to sleep on the floor. The solution was a storable bunk that folds into the wall shelves that I made by modifying components of an ikea shelf system. The shelves are shallow enough that pallets that can clear the wheel-wells can clear the shelves, and the bunk is narrow enough that three pallets will fit whether the bunk is folded away or open.

The follow sequence shows the unfolding steps without the clutter of the van.

Saturday, November 7, 2009

modification 1

The panels ride lower but still have the airspace between the panels and roof.

Sunday, August 30, 2009

summer vacation



This is what I did on my summer vacation. I did most of the work during the last week of July and managed to finish the heavy work before freight picked back up. Now it's a matter of rearranging and adjusting the final fit.

This project involved two parts--installing auxiliary batteries that are powered by solar panels and rearranging my storage.

The power system gives me electric power to run my computer, ventilation, electric cooler, and heater (yet to be installed) without having to use the van's battery. It consists of two solar panels mounted on a ladder rack, two agm batteries, and assorted charge controllers, fuses, and circuit breakers. The jury is out on how well this system will work, but it does produce electricity when the sun is out, and there is power available when I connect to the battery bank. More to follow as I get more photos and rearrange the controllers and wiring.
Where I lose almost three hundred pounds of cargo capacity with the solar panels and extra batteries, the rearranged shelves give me more than two extra feet of cargo space. I took the ikea shelves I installed previously and cut them in half, so their depth is less than the depth of my rear wheel-wells. Any freight that can get past the wheel wells will get past the shelves and can be pushed as far forward as the driver's seat.

All I need now is an auxiliary air conditioner that weighs nothing and requires no power.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

another project

This is a different unrelated project.

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

doing it

People ask me how I manage both an over-the-road career and my art. For the most part I can manage it because it is all one interwoven, tightly knotted mess. Much of art is mindless, mind-numbing nothing with the occassional spark of something useful. I have chosen to use the road to channel the nothing part. The road even allows me an income and something to focus on outside a studio.

The doing-it part then becomes framed by the road part. A lot of studio time involves piddling about. I save the piddling for when I'm on the road and try to do as much piddling on the road, so that when it comes time for the quality studio time I can get the job done in an efficient manner. All the planning, designing, and inventing is done ahead of time. By the time I get to the studio (many times it's just a kitchen table), I have thought through all my construction methods and proportions, and can go right straight to work. If new ideas come about during the implementation phase, I'll ad lib only so far that it doesn't interfere with completing the project. If the new idea calls for a major redirection, I save the idea for the next project.

Technically, I could make my little books entirely in my vehicle. In reality I end up working more efficiently by only taking care of small repetitive jobs like stitching together pre-stacked signatures, or making small wire parts for mechanical projects. I save clumbsy and messy jobs like tearing paper and gluing things for when I can work outside the vehicle. I have small stashes of supplies with a few family and friends scattered across the country who then allow me a place to work when I come off the road or when freight gets slow.

I am in high production when freight is low. I'll park at one of my supply points and work on projects taking care to only take on projects that I can dump at a moments notice, because when a load offer comes in I have to be ready to roll. I'll route myself back to the supply point until freight picks back up and then I'm back into the road mode. I save my home time for when I want to take care of more involved work and for work in the gallery. Inspite of what could potentially be a great detractor from a driving career, I still manage to keep all my driving statistics like load acceptance, on-time, and in-service time at a high level.

tim's work

Tim's work from the Guardrail Damage Ahead show at 500X Gallery is also on display at his website--www.timcbest.com. See his listings under Guardrail Damage Ahead aka the American Abstraction series, Efficiency Deficiency, and Wall (the red Jolly Rogers sculpture).

Friday, April 3, 2009

show highlights

Book highlights from the Guardrail Damage Ahead show.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

guardrail damage ahead

For immediate release.

500X Gallery presents Guardrail Damage Ahead. The show runs April 4-25, 2009, with an opening reception on April 4, 6-10:00 P.M.

Guardrail Damage Ahead is an amalgamation of drawing, bookcraft, photography, and video.

Blake's work based on a prearranged system of order suggests a basic truth or an underlying code. Comically the code cannot be contained. He begins from a base of minimal line drawing on paper and steps into a world of small, simple books that take on a life of their own, spiraling out of control into something resembling a three ring circus--in a quiet sort of way.

Best works from a foundation based in the corporate culture. He takes the perspective from inside the business suit. What should have been order and security turns out to be something else altogether. The characters he has created in photographs and on the screen are groomed for control--self control, a controlled environment. But something has to give.

Guardrail Damage Ahead.

Saturday, March 7, 2009

more show prep


500X Gallery. 500 Exposition Avenue. Dallas, Texas.
Opening reception: April 4, 2009. 6-10 pm.
www.500X.org

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Friday, January 2, 2009

Saturday, December 27, 2008

lined paper

I differentiate books as journals being lined and sketchbooks being unlined. Using this terminology I think there are many sketchbooks that wish they were journals, but lineage was not available. Lined book blocks and paper are available, but that smart handmade paper that you really like is rarely going to be lined. For this reason I have been lining my own paper. I have the option to draw, print, or emboss the lines, and I can decide the color, gauge, and spacing of the lines.

Any printing method works. I have used etching, aquatint, and lithography. I haven't used screen printing or wood/lino cut. One of my favorite results was from a frame wrapped with mono filament fishing line. The fishing line leaves the printed line as well as a light score in the paper.

When drawing lines I set up a template with marks for line spacing. I place a rule at the appropriate mark and follow the straight edge very closely without touching the rule. This is my personal technique for making a very straight line that still has a looser hand drawn feel. I've also projected the lines with a digital projector and traced the lines.
Whether drawing or printing I set up my template or printing plate so that the length of the paper is at least two signatures long. I make the lines on both sides of the paper then tear the sheet at signature length. Picture a toilet paper roll with lines running the length of the sheet and then tear off signatures as required. That is an exaggerated picture. Most of my prints and drawings tear down to give me two signatures. The matchbook size I get four to six signatures.

Sometimes when printing I'll get four signatures from one plate by drawing my plate so that the top and bottom of the plate are the tops of two signatures. The center line of the plate is the bottoms of the signatures. After printing both sides of the sheet, tear once length wise to get two double length signature sheets then tear those down to single signature length. Confusing description I'm sure. Using the image below. Picture it as two plates each large enough to make two signatures. The top plate is right side up and the bottom plate has the signature tops at the bottom. But instead of two separate plates make it one plate to print one large sheet that is then torn down to four pieces.
Hmm, not sure if that's any better. Maybe there is still something usable here.

Thursday, December 25, 2008

printing hardware, improvised

I had a conversation with Meredeth of Yatsu fame from the etsy bookbinding group. The conversation lead to talk about printing and producing lines in a homemade, handmade, self-help fashion. I've spent the last five years around presses and have been making my own lined paper, so maybe now is the time for me to expand on the topic a wee bit.
I'll start with the press. When I hear people lamenting over not having a press, one of my first comments is--Make one. Bookbinding is already about taking the long route to getting a book or journal, so why not dig the hole deeper. Books are about multiples whether it is duplication within the contents of a book or duplication of information between books. The press is also about duplication. So don't let not having a press be an obstacle. I'm mostly speaking to the people who have a print related idea but think they are stuck since they don't have a press.

I won't go too much into using a wooden spoon. I haven't had much luck with the technique (mostly because of my application), but do remember that it is an option.

The mechanics of the press is basically the idea that anything that will exert pressure can be used for printing to some degree of success. The photo in my article about adjusting photographs is a picture of several wood presses that work well for letterpress and block-type printing. Notice the resemblence to clamps?

To cover the actual construction and printing techniques would involve writing a book which is not my objective today. This is a primer. The internet is loaded with homemade printing press plans. All seem to be variations of similar ideas. One of the older how-to-build-an-improvised-press books is a Popular Mechanics book published in the 1960's (I think). I can picture where it was shelved in the universitiy's technical library, but I can't find it in the catalogue. Anyway, the technical library usually has something on improvised presses if the school has some sort of printmaking program. The key to remember is that for etching and litho printing some sort of roller or scraper bar needs to be incorporated into the press to concentrate the necessary pressure to transfer an image. Materials are easily found. Plywood, and standard hardware. The roller can be salvaged or found at tinkerer suppliers like American Science and Surplus (this store is a gem in and of itself).

When I began my quest to build a litho press, some printers told me it was impossible to build something out of wood that would create the required pressure. I remembered seeing one of Gutenberg's original presses, and it was made from wood. Sennefelder, the inventer of lithography, made a suitcase-sized, portable press made from wood. I was looking for a certain look when I built my press, so I used solid maple. If function is the only objective, plywood should work nicely--it's lighter weight too.

Pictured is my press and the resulting print. Everything is wood except for the leather on the scraper bar and the plexiglas for the tympan. The litho stone is local limestone from a landscaping supplier.
A much simpler press can be built much more easily if function is the only concern. I took the extra trouble with this press to prove that it could be done.

Saturday, December 13, 2008

prototype

This series of images should be self explanatory if you begin with the idea of a box for storing supplies and progress to a cradle for everything a cradle is used for. The cradle/box is a prototype, so it is short on embellishments like handles, latches, pulls, and interior dividers. It is one of a kind and the precursor to a series. The construction is masonite and glue with strategically located slots to allow it to do what it does. Dimensions are approximately 3.75 x 11.75 x 9.5 inches closed, and when opened the cradle handles standard 8.5 x 11 sheets folded in half.
Note that the bottom of the cradle is nearly flush with the bottom of the box. The needle I use when punching signatures has enough clearance. If someone uses a longer needle or awl and needs more clearance, a folded piece of corrugated board or a couple pieces of heavy felt as a liner should do the trick. It works for me.
I've had this idea in the back of my head for some time. The holiday promotions at Bookbinding Etsy Street Team (BEST) gave me the push to roll this thing out. The box will be discounted for my promotion. Go to BEST blog to see the daily promotions offered by other team members between now and Christmas. My promo date is Sunday, December 21. This box will be greatly reduced on that day if it's not sold before then. It's already listed in my shop.

Sunday, November 30, 2008

honestly

I have been working.

Sunday, April 13, 2008

boxing challenge, round one

This isn't so much a formal challenge as an observation and open invitation. It seems to me that there aren't that many boxes offered in the world of etsy. Etsy is all about trinkets and knick-knacks and to do with all of that?--I say to put them in boxes. So where are the box makers?

Imagine a box for each item on etsy.

Wednesday, March 5, 2008

managing blog consumption

Here is a question to everyone. How do you sort through and review the blogs that you regularly visit? My list of blogs is slowly growing and quickly becoming a cumbersome feat of management. I am currently experimenting with my tried and true RSS Bandit and Sage (thanks Rhonda), a component that works within Mozilla Firefox. These are both basically feed readers that keep track of sites that are published in atom/rss/...formats.

Monday, February 18, 2008

mitered corners






When I learned how to make mitered corners we learned a really involved and contorted way to do it. The corners were perfect, but it was very process intensive. I won't try to describe it. It finally occurred to me that there was a much easier way to do it with identical results. If anything the results are better considering how much less the book has to be handled. Less handling, less mess, fewer accidents. I since ran across this method in print but can't remember where. The sequence of photos are fairly clear. The only critical consideration is to use davey board that is the same thickness as what's being cover. The angle doesn't even have to be a perfect 45 degree angle, and the edges will still meet straight and flush.

Using mitered corners is not a necessity. Folded corners leave more cloth in the corners for wearability. The mitered corner is smoother and less bulky when that matters. The mitered corner is more durable than it may look, because the glue has a chance to impregnate the ends of the cloth fibers locking the edges together, and the end pages have a smooth, flush surface to adhere.

fund-raiser starts today

The Bookbinding Etsy Street Team (BESTbooks) starts an online fund-raiser today. The charity recipient is H.E.L.P. International. Follow and assist the event through the team blog that is linked here. I'll be there along with other book artists you'll want to meet.

Friday, February 15, 2008

sanded edges

Sanding the sides of a book block can be done with as little as a sanding block. For more precision clamping the book block between two boards help to keep the sanding block square and level. The following is how I do it.

The tools (from top to bottom): wood blocks, micro plane, shims, and sanding block. The wood blocks I use are scraps from a canvas stretcher. The micro plane for removing larger amounts of book. Shims for evenly raising wood blocks. Sanding block for sanding edges.


I have several sets of shims of various thicknesses depending on how much paper needs to be removed.


Blocks clamped then inverted in vise of work bench.


Before and after.